Esther M. Zimmer Lederberg
Tonnelet
(Costume as illumination)

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Tonnelet (Costume as illumination)
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Clothes were made that had silver and gold wire interwoven in the cloth. Sometimes costume jewelry, such as immitation (glass) diamonds, emeralds, rubies, amethyst, etc., was woven into the cloth. Paillettes (ornamental glittering spangles), mirrors, sequins, etc., were attached to the cloth. Obviously such costumes could be heavy, but clothing such as this was used upon the stage as it reflected light. Thus, clothes were used to illuminate the person on stage. Candlelight reflecting from these mirrors, glass, etc., was effective.

It should be recalled that on stage, light could emphasize gestures. Thus mirrors, sequins, glass, metalic-thread were materials which were used in clothing to create illumination. Girandoles (large earrings) were used to illuminate, lending emphasis to the gesturing head. Similarly, rings were used on fingers of the gesturing hand as an illumination device. Neclaces were also used for illumination of the gesturing body. Similarly, fans could illuminate the gesturing hand, masks could illuminate the gestring head, shoes can illuminate the gesturing foot, combs and cauls can illuminate the hair or perukes of the gesturing head, gold or silver thread can illluminate the body (especially royal costumes).

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